The heavy polished wooden doors of La Catena shut out the mundane world and its whizzing cars. The tuxedoed Giovani does his utmost best at making people feel very welcomed in his establishment, wether they are regular customers, or even first timers, greeting everyone with his pleasant greeting and smile before they even walk through the front door. And sometimes, even with reservations, you may be directed to the spacious wood-paneled bar, where you will again be greeted by the ever charming Alice, also in her tuxedoed outfit (and did I mention "very cute!"). Here the spacious wood-paneled bar, where smoking is permitted, has 10 tables and is an alternative across the entrance way for those who would prefer to eat in a less formal atmosphere. When your table is ready, you'll be escorted to the dining room by the handsome and also charming Bobby (who also directs the wait staff to ensure you meal is prepared just the way you ordered it) seats you in a handsomely a ... more

The heavy polished wooden doors of La Catena shut out the mundane world and its whizzing cars. The tuxedoed Giovani does his utmost best at making people feel very welcomed in his establishment, wether they are regular customers, or even first timers, greeting everyone with his pleasant greeting and smile before they even walk through the front door. And sometimes, even with reservations, you may be directed to the spacious wood-paneled bar, where you will again be greeted by the ever charming Alice, also in her tuxedoed outfit (and did I mention "very cute!"). Here the spacious wood-paneled bar, where smoking is permitted, has 10 tables and is an alternative across the entrance way for those who would prefer to eat in a less formal atmosphere.
When your table is ready, you'll be escorted to the dining room by the handsome and also charming Bobby (who also directs the wait staff to ensure you meal is prepared just the way you ordered it) seats you in a handsomely appointed dining room, with comfortable rose velvet chairs and gleaming chandeliers.
A fixture at the site for 11 years, La Catena was redone recently for a fresher, more glossy look. It is run by John Cabello, a native of Genoa, Italy, whose brother operates a restaurant of the same name in Roselle Park.
Chef Alfonso Chuka, who also is from Genoa, has worked at La Catena since the beginning and demonstrates a deft hand. The fresh pasta is produced by Sandro Santoro, who has his specialty down pat.
Much of the menu is quite reasonable. It's possible to eat well with a $6.95 appetizer and a big plate of pasta for as little as $12.95, or an elaborate chicken dish for $13.95.
With an extensive wine list, there are only a few choices in the under$25 range, though there is decent wine by the glass for $4.75. The real selection by the bottle starts at $30 or more, and goes up from there, so those who want options must be prepared to pay. Big spenders have lots of possibilities, including the 1993 Chateau Margaux for $546.
All of the standard appetizers and entrees are indeed excellent, it's the daily specials that really stand out, and are recited by the waiters.The menu has its share of standard offerings, from beef carpaccio ($8.95) to veal piccata ($17.95) and chicken Florentine ($13.95). You do not have to look very hard, however, to find more unusual items designed to intrigue.
Crab meat bundled in crepes and covered with a smooth sherry sauce ($8.95) has the panache of a dessert. A more savory choice would be the three large butterflied shrimp sauteed with artichokes ($8.95), simple but effective.
The antipasto for two ($13) features that famous Genoa salami rolled into little cornucopias set with green olives. A roasted red pepper is the centerpiece, with strips of tender marinated portobello mushroom and on the other side of the pepper, strips of equally delicate eggplant.
Norwegian smoked salmon ($8.95), spread to cover the entire plate, was no-frills, with lemon and capers the only elements to amplify the compelling essence of the fish.
Entrees are ample, but even for big eaters, a special of half a lobster perched atop a mountain of artichoke fettucine ($21.95) could be daunting. Presented with broccoli rabe, truffle oil and garlic, it was both refined and hearty.
Another massive dish, the veal chop ($22.95) had been sauteed in wine and wild mushrooms, then stuffed with Fontina cheese and prosciutto.The elaborate preparation was enhanced by the quality of the meat, which could have stood on its own.
A peppercorn-coated steak ($20.95) with a brandy, cream and mustard sauce was well-produced, the sauce generating several levels of flavor. Sliced layered potatoes in a cheese sauce, broccoli and carrots made the perfect accompaniments for this traditional selection.
A special note must be given to the fish specials of the day, in particular the peppercorn-coated tuna steak, ($19.95) on a bed of garlic spinach with a light red wine sauce and cannellini beans took some imagination. The bite of the pepper and the richness of the wine were mellowed by the beans for a multilevel taste experience.....out of this world!! (never over done and never dry).
Many desserts ($4.95) are made in-house, including the extremely rich cannoli cake and the creamy English trifle. The Zabaglione Al Marsala ($6.00 without strawberries, but you must have it with strawberries for $8.00) is one of the BEST light tasting deserts ever. Bobby and Geno are the only two that know how to prepare it perfectly and pride themselves with this art, but I'm partial to Bobby's handmade experience.Those who want something less elaborate would be wise to try the moist ricotta cheesecake or the creme brulee with its wonderful crunchy browned sugar cap.
La Catena has a well-deserved reputation as a reliable place for a business meal or social occasion when the meal and service just can't miss. less