The heavy polished wooden doors of La Catena shut out the mundane
world and its whizzing cars. The tuxedoed Giovani does his utmost
best at making people feel very welcomed in his establishment,
wether they are regular customers, or even first timers, greeting
everyone with his pleasant greeting and smile before they even
walk through the front door. And sometimes, even with reservations,
you may be directed to the spacious wood-paneled bar, where you
will again be greeted by the ever charming Alice, also in her tuxedoed
outfit (and did I mention "very cute!"). Here the spacious wood-paneled
bar, where smoking is permitted, has 10 tables and is an alternative
across the entrance way for those who would prefer to eat in a less
formal atmosphere.
When your table is ready, you'll be escorted to the dining room
by the handsome and also charming Bobby (who also directs the
wait staff to ensure you meal is prepared just the way you ordered
it) seats you in a handsomely appointed dining room, with comfortable
rose velvet chairs and gleaming chandeliers.
A fixture at the site for 11 years, La Catena was redone recently
for a fresher, more glossy look. It is run by John Cabello, a native
of Genoa, Italy, whose brother operates a restaurant of the same
name in Roselle Park.
Chef Alfonso Chuka, who also is from Genoa, has worked at La Catena
since the beginning and demonstrates a deft hand. The fresh pasta
is produced by Sandro Santoro, who has his specialty down pat.
Much of the menu is quite reasonable. It's possible to eat well
with a $6.95 appetizer and a big plate of pasta for as little as
$12.95, or an elaborate chicken dish for $13.95.
With an extensive wine list, there are only a few choices in the
under$25 range, though there is decent wine by the glass for $4.75.
The real selection by the bottle starts at $30 or more, and goes
up from there, so those who want options must be prepared to pay.
Big spenders have lots of possibilities, including the 1993
Chateau Margaux for $546.
All of the standard appetizers and entrees are indeed excellent,
it's the daily specials that really stand out, and are recited
by the waiters.The menu has its share of standard offerings,
from beef carpaccio ($8.95) to veal piccata ($17.95) and chicken
Florentine ($13.95). You do not have to look very hard, however,
to find more unusual items designed to intrigue.
Crab meat bundled in crepes and covered with a smooth sherry sauce
($8.95) has the panache of a dessert. A more savory choice would
be the three large butterflied shrimp sauteed with artichokes
($8.95), simple but effective.
The antipasto for two ($13) features that famous Genoa salami
rolled into little cornucopias set with green olives. A roasted
red pepper is the centerpiece, with strips of tender marinated
portobello mushroom and on the other side of the pepper, strips
of equally delicate eggplant.
Norwegian smoked salmon ($8.95), spread to cover the entire
plate, was no-frills, with lemon and capers the only elements
to amplify the compelling essence of the fish.
Entrees are ample, but even for big eaters, a special of half a
lobster perched atop a mountain of artichoke fettucine ($21.95)
could be daunting. Presented with broccoli rabe, truffle oil
and garlic, it
was both refined and hearty.
Another massive dish, the veal chop ($22.95) had been sauteed
in wine and wild mushrooms, then stuffed with Fontina cheese
and prosciutto.The elaborate preparation was enhanced by the
quality of the meat, which could have stood on its own.
A peppercorn-coated steak ($20.95) with a brandy, cream and
mustard sauce was well-produced, the sauce generating several
levels of flavor. Sliced layered potatoes in a cheese sauce,
broccoli and carrots made the perfect accompaniments for this
traditional selection.
A special note must be given to the fish specials of the day, in
particular the peppercorn-coated tuna steak, ($19.95) on a
bed of garlic spinach with a light red wine sauce and cannellini
beans took some imagination. The bite of the pepper and the richness
of the wine were mellowed by the beans for a multilevel taste experience.....out
of this world!! (never over done and never dry).
Many desserts ($4.95) are made in-house, including the extremely
rich cannoli cake and the creamy English trifle. The Zabaglione
Al Marsala ($6.00 without strawberries, but you must have it
with strawberries for $8.00) is one of the BEST light tasting
deserts ever. Bobby and Geno are the
only two that know how to prepare it perfectly and pride themselves
with this art, but I'm partial to Bobby's handmade experience.Those
who want something less elaborate would be wise to try the moist
ricotta cheesecake or the creme brulee with its wonderful crunchy
browned sugar cap.
La Catena has a well-deserved reputation as a reliable place
for a business meal or social occasion when the meal and service
just can't miss.
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